Friday, January 31, 2014
Art - Painting Technique "Flame and Halo"
This was the scene before
working on the flame and halo.
The flame had first been painted in the
colour of -
a very small amount of yellow + white,
to give a very light cream.
This is a close-up of the flame.
Then the whole flame was painted in a colour -
slightly more yellow + white,
to give a cream.
When I started to paint the halo
around the flame,
I started with a colour -
yellow + a very small amount of red,
to give a golden yellow.
I painted this colour in an area around the flame
over the curtain
but also lapped it over
the edges of the cream colour of the flame.
For the halo,
the next colour that I used was a -
yellow + some red,
to give an orange.
This I blended into the golden yellow
around the flame, but not touching the
flame itself.
And also extended this colour further
away from the flame than the golden
yellow had gone.
The last colour that I used for the halo,
was a -
yellow + more red,
to give a red orange.
This I blended into the orange,
and also extended it further away from
the flame,
than the orange had gone.
(this was painted in acrylic paint)
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
Wednesday, January 29, 2014
Art - Painting Technique "Curtain"
Step 1
Using brush strokes that go downward,
paint the entire area where you want
the curtain to be,
in a foundation colour.
I have used a colour -
some red + some yellow,
to give a red orange,
+ white,
to give a light red orange,
+ a very small amount of blue,
to give this colour a pinkish tinge.
Step 2
Using brush strokes that go downward,
paint areas of your curtain
that are in shadow,
using a darker colour.
I have used a colour -
red + some blue,
to give a red purple.
I painted it lightly over the
foundation colour.
And ran a second coat along the edge
of the "shadow" area
to give a darker line.
Step 3
I reworked the curtain quite a bit in
this step.
I mixed up a mid-tone of -
some red + some yellow,
to give a red orange,
+ a much smaller amount
of white than the foundation colour,
+ a very small amount of blue.
Using brush strokes going downward,
I painted this colour over the mid-tone
areas of the shadow,
covering over some of the darker
edges.
The darker edges that I did leave,
were a bit too dark,
so I mixed -
the mid-tone + water,
and went over them with one coat.
This muted the dark colour.
I also painted lightly, one coat of this
mixture over the foundation colour, not
too thick so that you can still see the
underlying colour.
(This was painted in acrylic paint)
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
Using brush strokes that go downward,
paint the entire area where you want
the curtain to be,
in a foundation colour.
I have used a colour -
some red + some yellow,
to give a red orange,
+ white,
to give a light red orange,
+ a very small amount of blue,
to give this colour a pinkish tinge.
Step 2
Using brush strokes that go downward,
paint areas of your curtain
that are in shadow,
using a darker colour.
I have used a colour -
red + some blue,
to give a red purple.
I painted it lightly over the
foundation colour.
And ran a second coat along the edge
of the "shadow" area
to give a darker line.
Step 3
I reworked the curtain quite a bit in
this step.
I mixed up a mid-tone of -
some red + some yellow,
to give a red orange,
+ a much smaller amount
of white than the foundation colour,
+ a very small amount of blue.
Using brush strokes going downward,
I painted this colour over the mid-tone
areas of the shadow,
covering over some of the darker
edges.
The darker edges that I did leave,
were a bit too dark,
so I mixed -
the mid-tone + water,
and went over them with one coat.
This muted the dark colour.
I also painted lightly, one coat of this
mixture over the foundation colour, not
too thick so that you can still see the
underlying colour.
(This was painted in acrylic paint)
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
Art - Painting Technique "Wood grain"
Step 1
Using brush strokes that radiate
downwards and outwards at the same
time
(you might just be able to see them
here),
apply a foundation colour
such as a -
yellow + a small amount of red,
giving a yellow orange,
over the entire area
where you want the wooden surface
to be.
Step 2
Using brush strokes that radiate
downwards and outwards at the same
time
in line with the ones that you did in
step 1,
loosely paint over the yellow orange,
so it shows through,
with a colour such as a -
yellow + some red,
to give an orange,
+ a very small amount of black,
to give a dark orange / brown.
Step 3
Using brush strokes that radiate
downwards and outwards at the same
time
in line with the ones that you did in
steps 1 and 2,
loosely paint over the yellow orange,
and the dark orange / brown
so they show through,
with a colour such as a -
yellow + some red,
to give an orange,
+ a small amount of black,
to give a dark brown.
For the dark thick lines to the left -
They came out a bit too dark,
so I laid over one coat of -
dark orange / brown + some water,
and this muted the colour.
(This was done using acrylic paint)
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
Using brush strokes that radiate
downwards and outwards at the same
time
(you might just be able to see them
here),
apply a foundation colour
such as a -
yellow + a small amount of red,
giving a yellow orange,
over the entire area
where you want the wooden surface
to be.
Step 2
Using brush strokes that radiate
downwards and outwards at the same
time
in line with the ones that you did in
step 1,
loosely paint over the yellow orange,
so it shows through,
with a colour such as a -
yellow + some red,
to give an orange,
+ a very small amount of black,
to give a dark orange / brown.
Step 3
Using brush strokes that radiate
downwards and outwards at the same
time
in line with the ones that you did in
steps 1 and 2,
loosely paint over the yellow orange,
and the dark orange / brown
so they show through,
with a colour such as a -
yellow + some red,
to give an orange,
+ a small amount of black,
to give a dark brown.
For the dark thick lines to the left -
They came out a bit too dark,
so I laid over one coat of -
dark orange / brown + some water,
and this muted the colour.
(This was done using acrylic paint)
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
Thursday, January 23, 2014
Art - A Basic Method of Painting a Picture
Choose the scene that you want to paint.
I am going to use this photo of the candle, as an
example.
You can start painting your picture on a blank piece
of paper / canvas etc.
Or you can draw in a foundation sketch to help
place the main lines / objects in your "frame".
I am going to use the foundation sketch that I drew
in the previous worksheet "Proportions".
Whether you start from scratch or use a sketch,
there are some basic guidelines you can follow when
painting your picture, which are -
Work from - background, to
middleground, to
foreground
- objects underneath, to
objects above
- lighter colours, to
darker colours
- lighter shades, to
darker shades
of the same colour
There are going to be times when you have to do
things in a different order to the above, because of
how things overlap in your scene, or when re-
working an area in your picture, but in general
these are good guidelines.
Or when being creative and wanting to do things
differently.
It's entirely up to you what you want to express
in your picture, whether that is a realistic represent-
ation of the scene, or an impression of that scene
that you see in your mind. And remember that
everyone has their own style.
I have painted the following picture,
showing some basic steps in it's construction.
This is a basic method of painting a picture,
to give you an idea,
but by no means the only way.
The number of ways are only limited by your im-
agination.
A Basic Method of Painting a Picture
There are 4 steps to this method.
Step 1 - The foundation areas of colour
Step 2 - Building up the background
Step 3 - Building up the middleground
Step 4 - Building up the foreground
(I will explain some techniques that I used to get
some of the "effects", in more detail in following
blog entries)
Step 1 - The foundation areas of colour
Determine which are the main areas of colour of
your scene.
Here they are -
- the curtain
- the wooden surface
- the candle and saucer
- the flame
Determine which is the lightest colour in each area.
Paint these in, working from lightest to darkest.
Step 2 - Building up the background
(the curtain and the wooden surface)
I determined what the middle colour was in the
wooden surface area.
Then I overlaid it on top of the previous colour.
I then determined what the darkest colours where
in the curtain and wooden surface areas.
Then I painted them in.
I also painted in -
- the candle wick
- the shadows behind the bow and ribbons
Step 3 - Building up the middleground
(the candle, the flame and the saucer)
Firstly I painted along the edges of the candle and
the saucer in the same colour, to smooth out the
lines, going over any colour from the background
that went over into those areas.
I determined that the next darker colours to paint
were -
- light grey in the saucer, then
- darker of the light yellow in the flame
- pink/orange at the top of the candle
Then I worked a halo of overlaid yellow/orange,
orange and red/orange around the flame on the
curtain.
I also reworked the curtain.
Step 4 - Building up the foreground
(The bow and the ribbons)
Technically speaking, the foreground is more to the
front of your "frame",
but it would be appropriate for the purposes of this
particular scene, to be the bow and the ribbons.
Here I've painted in the bow.
And here I've painted in the ribbons.
So, this is how it was done.
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
I am going to use this photo of the candle, as an
example.
You can start painting your picture on a blank piece
of paper / canvas etc.
Or you can draw in a foundation sketch to help
place the main lines / objects in your "frame".
I am going to use the foundation sketch that I drew
in the previous worksheet "Proportions".
Whether you start from scratch or use a sketch,
there are some basic guidelines you can follow when
painting your picture, which are -
Work from - background, to
middleground, to
foreground
- objects underneath, to
objects above
- lighter colours, to
darker colours
- lighter shades, to
darker shades
of the same colour
There are going to be times when you have to do
things in a different order to the above, because of
how things overlap in your scene, or when re-
working an area in your picture, but in general
these are good guidelines.
Or when being creative and wanting to do things
differently.
It's entirely up to you what you want to express
in your picture, whether that is a realistic represent-
ation of the scene, or an impression of that scene
that you see in your mind. And remember that
everyone has their own style.
I have painted the following picture,
showing some basic steps in it's construction.
This is a basic method of painting a picture,
to give you an idea,
but by no means the only way.
The number of ways are only limited by your im-
agination.
A Basic Method of Painting a Picture
There are 4 steps to this method.
Step 1 - The foundation areas of colour
Step 2 - Building up the background
Step 3 - Building up the middleground
Step 4 - Building up the foreground
(I will explain some techniques that I used to get
some of the "effects", in more detail in following
blog entries)
Step 1 - The foundation areas of colour
Determine which are the main areas of colour of
your scene.
Here they are -
- the curtain
- the wooden surface
- the candle and saucer
- the flame
Determine which is the lightest colour in each area.
Paint these in, working from lightest to darkest.
Step 2 - Building up the background
(the curtain and the wooden surface)
I determined what the middle colour was in the
wooden surface area.
Then I overlaid it on top of the previous colour.
I then determined what the darkest colours where
in the curtain and wooden surface areas.
Then I painted them in.
I also painted in -
- the candle wick
- the shadows behind the bow and ribbons
Step 3 - Building up the middleground
(the candle, the flame and the saucer)
Firstly I painted along the edges of the candle and
the saucer in the same colour, to smooth out the
lines, going over any colour from the background
that went over into those areas.
I determined that the next darker colours to paint
were -
- light grey in the saucer, then
- darker of the light yellow in the flame
- pink/orange at the top of the candle
Then I worked a halo of overlaid yellow/orange,
orange and red/orange around the flame on the
curtain.
I also reworked the curtain.
Step 4 - Building up the foreground
(The bow and the ribbons)
Technically speaking, the foreground is more to the
front of your "frame",
but it would be appropriate for the purposes of this
particular scene, to be the bow and the ribbons.
Here I've painted in the bow.
And here I've painted in the ribbons.
So, this is how it was done.
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
Thursday, January 2, 2014
Art - Proportions
Attempting to draw or paint a picture can often result in the image not looking right because the
components within it are not the right size and hence shape in relation to each other. When the
components are, that is what is meant by being "in proportion", or, "in the right proportion".
To achieve good proportions, if you are not instinctively very good at this, a little measurement
is needed. But you don't need a ruler!
Firstly, choose a simple scene that you
want to draw or paint.
I am going to use this photo that I took of a
candle as an example.
You can go straight into drawing or painting
your picture if you are confident, but some-
times it's useful to draw in a foundation
sketch, which is what I will do.
So, using a lead pencil, I'll draw in the main
guidelines for positioning the elements
within the "frame" (edges) of the picture.
The main methods used involve -
- dividing a line into 1/2, 1/3's etc.
- horizontal and vertical lines
- dashes / dots
whether drawn / painted, or in your mind,
and,
- using your pencil or paint-brush to
measure with
Method for drawing a foundation sketch
1. Main horizontal line
Decide which is the main horizontal line in
the scene, if there is one. Here, it is the
bottom edge of the curtain.
Decide where you want it to go in the
"frame" of your canvas, piece of paper, etc.
and draw it in.
I am going to do the same as in the photo.
Placing the horizontal line
Estimate where 1/2 way is down each side
of the photo.
Estimate where 1/2 way is down each side
of your "frame" and make a mark..........(1)
The horizontal line is below 1/2 way on the
photo.
To estimate where, estimate 1/2 way
between (1) and the bottom of the photo,
down each side.
Then estimate this on each side of the
"frame" and make a mark......................(2)
I estimated on the photo that the horizontal line is 1/3 down, from (1) to (2).
So, estimate this down each side of your "frame" and make a mark......................(3)
Then, draw your line from one side to the
other at (3).
2. Main vertical line
Decide which is the main vertical line in
your scene, if there is one. Here it is the
line through the centre of the candle.
Decide where you want it in the "frame" of
your canvas, piece of paper, etc. and draw
it in.
I am going to do the same as in the photo.
Placing the vertical line
Using the same method as above,
ie. dividing the top and bottom edges of the
"frame" by 1/2, 1/3's etc., make these marks -
- 1/2.................................................(4)
- 1/2 way between (4) and left side of
"frame"...........................................(5)
- 1/2 way between (4) and (5).............(6)
Draw your line from top to bottom at (6).
3. The top of the candle
Dividing the sides of the "frame", make
these marks -
- 1/2 way between (1) and the top edge of
the "frame".....................................(7)
- 1/3 up, from (7) to the top edge of
the "frame".....................................(8)
I estimated that the width of the candle was
1/3 each side of (6), towards (4) and (5).
I estimated by eye (in my mind) where this
would be in my "frame" and drew in the line.
4. The candle width
Make the marks at -
- 1/3 each side of (6) towards (4) and (5)
.....................................................(9 a,b)
Draw in the length of the candle, following
the imaginary vertical lines that run from
(9a) and (9b) at the top to those at the bottom.
I have estimated that it ends about 1/3 to
1/2 way down from (3) to (2).
Estimate this position by eye in your
"frame" and end your vertical lines there.
5. The saucer position
Using small dashes or dots, place marks
at these positions -
- a little less than 1/2 way from (3) to (1)
on each side of the candle...............(10)
- a little below (2) on (6)......................(11)
- 1/2 way between left edge of "frame" and
(9a) (left side of candle), and at the
same time also, 1/2 way between an
imaginary horizontal line going through
(10) and an imaginary horizontal line
going through (11).........................(12a)
Use your pencil to measure between (12a)
and (9a) along an imaginary horizontal line,
by laying it on the paper etc. with the tip at
(12a) and pinch your fingers on the pencil
to hold it, with the edge of your finger and
thumb where (9a) is.
Then without moving your fingers, lay the
pencil down on the paper etc. along the
same imaginary horizontal line, with the tip at (9b) (the right side of the candle) and see where the edge of your finger and thumb are.
Make a mark there...........................(12b)
If you are painting, you can use your paint brush for this. When you are sitting out of
arms reach of your subject, you can still
measure in this way by holding up your
pencil or paint-brush in front of you to
compare the sizes of the elements within
your scene. Use a dominant line as your
reference length, and compare the sizes of
other lines / areas to this.
6. The saucer
Estimate the shape of the saucer by eye
from the photo. Join all the dashes / dots approximating that shape as closely as possible.
7. Adjustments
I compared the drawing to the photo to
see if it looked the same.
Candle width
I estimated that the candle width in the
drawing was probably a little too wide, so I
thinned it down a little. I don't think I
needed to, though!
Back of saucer
I dropped this down a little.
8. The flame
Estimate on the photo by eye, 1/2 way
between the top of the candle and the top
of the photo.
Estimate on the photo by eye, 1/2 way
between this point and the top of the photo,
ie. 3/4 from the top of the candle to the
top of the photo.
I estimated that the top of the flame comes
just under this 3/4 mark.
On the drawing, go through these same
steps and mark where the top of the flame
goes.
For the width of the flame, estimate on the
photo by eye where the width of the flame
falls, from the centre of the flame to
the width of the candle, (9a) or (9b).
I estimate that to be about 1/3.
On the drawing imagine in your mind, a vertical line going down along this point and mark in a dash or dot to show the side of the flame. Do the same for the other side of the flame.
Look at the flame in the photo to see it's shape, then draw it in the drawing, joining
it up to the dashes / dots.
Mine doesn't look the same as the photo,
as the candle width is too thin.
9. The base of the candle
Estimate on the photo by eye, where the
base of the candle comes, between the top
and the bottom of the saucer.
I estimate it to be about 1/2 way.
Make a mark there, and draw in the base
of the candle.
10. The base of the right fold of the bow
Estimate on the photo by eye, where this
base falls.
I estimate that it runs from the candle
base, along an imaginary horizontal line.
Estimate on the photo by eye, how far out
the fold goes.
I estimated that the distance from the edge
of the saucer to the fold, is about the same
as 1/2 the distance between the edge of
the candle and the edge of the saucer.
Keeping these things in mind, and looking
at the photo to get a good idea of it's
shape, draw the base of the right fold of the bow, making sure it follows these estimations.
11. The folded edge of the right fold of
the bow
Estimate on the photo by eye, where the
top point of the fold falls in relation to the
saucer.
I estimated that if you imagine a vertical
line going down from the point it will pass
very close to the side edge of the saucer.
With your pencil on the photo, measure the
length of the base of the fold (which was
drawn in the last section above), then with-
out moving your finger positions on the
pencil, move it and lay it along the folded
edge of this fold of the bow and see how
it's length compares.
I estimated that the fold is 2/3 the length of
the base.
So, lay your pencil along the base of the
fold of the bow on the drawing. Measure
it's length. Then without moving the
position of your fingers on the pencil, move
the pencil so that it's point is at the end
point of the base.
And at the same time, move the pencil
so that the 2/3 point of your measurement
falls along the imaginary vertical line
down past the edge of the saucer.
See where this is on the drawing, and
make a mark there.
Then, looking at the photo to see how the
folded edge looks, draw it in, making sure
that it starts at your mark and ends at the
point of the base.
12. The top edge of the right fold of the
bow
Look at the top edge of the right fold of the
bow in the photo, and then draw it's shape
in the drawing as closely as you can to
what you saw.
13. Adjustment
I compared the drawing to the photo and
the right fold of the bow looked to be a little
large, so I shortened the length of the base
a little, and hence had to re-draw in the line
of the folded edge.
14. The position of the left fold of the
bow
Another method to position a shape, is to
put dots where the points of the shape
should go.
Look at the photo and estimate where this
part of the bow begins.
I estimate, close to the vertical centre of
the candle, and a little higher than the
bottom of the candle.
Place a dot there on your drawing.
Similarly, for the beginning of the other
side, I estimate, that it is on the vertical
centre line through the candle, and a little
below the base of the candle.
Place a dot there on your drawing.
For the top corner of the fold, I estimate
this to be a little below the base of the
curtain, and a little beyond an imaginary
vertical line passing alongside the left edge
of the saucer.
Place a dot there on your drawing.
For the bottom corner of the fold, I estimate this to be a little above an imaginary horizontal line passing alongside
the bottom of the saucer, and a little beyond an imaginary vertical line coming down from the top corner dot.
Place a dot there on your drawing.
15. The left fold of the bow
Look at the photo to see the shape of each
line of this fold of the bow, and draw them
into the drawing, making sure that they
connect with the dots.
Continue in this way, using these methods.
You can use where lines cross as
reference points, to estimate 1/2, 1/3's etc.
of the line between them. Such as the
lower edge of the saucer between the two
folds of the bow.
The object is to draw in the main outlines of all the objects.
17. The completed foundation sketch
Adjustments
Check one last time that everything in your
drawing looks the same as in the photo.
I made the candle width a little thicker so
that it is probably back to the original width.
Tidying up
Rub out all the unnecessary lines.
- the vertical line through the centre of
the candle etc.
- the horizontal line of the bottom of the
curtain where it goes through the
saucer
- the marks around the edge of the
"frame"
And there is the completed drawing, with
everything in proportion.
Yours may not look the same as mine, but
remember that everyone has their own style.
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
components within it are not the right size and hence shape in relation to each other. When the
components are, that is what is meant by being "in proportion", or, "in the right proportion".
To achieve good proportions, if you are not instinctively very good at this, a little measurement
is needed. But you don't need a ruler!
Firstly, choose a simple scene that you
want to draw or paint.
I am going to use this photo that I took of a
candle as an example.
You can go straight into drawing or painting
your picture if you are confident, but some-
times it's useful to draw in a foundation
sketch, which is what I will do.
So, using a lead pencil, I'll draw in the main
guidelines for positioning the elements
within the "frame" (edges) of the picture.
The main methods used involve -
- dividing a line into 1/2, 1/3's etc.
- horizontal and vertical lines
- dashes / dots
whether drawn / painted, or in your mind,
and,
- using your pencil or paint-brush to
measure with
Method for drawing a foundation sketch
1. Main horizontal line
Decide which is the main horizontal line in
the scene, if there is one. Here, it is the
bottom edge of the curtain.
Decide where you want it to go in the
"frame" of your canvas, piece of paper, etc.
and draw it in.
I am going to do the same as in the photo.
Placing the horizontal line
Estimate where 1/2 way is down each side
of the photo.
Estimate where 1/2 way is down each side
of your "frame" and make a mark..........(1)
The horizontal line is below 1/2 way on the
photo.
To estimate where, estimate 1/2 way
between (1) and the bottom of the photo,
down each side.
Then estimate this on each side of the
"frame" and make a mark......................(2)
I estimated on the photo that the horizontal line is 1/3 down, from (1) to (2).
So, estimate this down each side of your "frame" and make a mark......................(3)
Then, draw your line from one side to the
other at (3).
2. Main vertical line
Decide which is the main vertical line in
your scene, if there is one. Here it is the
line through the centre of the candle.
Decide where you want it in the "frame" of
your canvas, piece of paper, etc. and draw
it in.
I am going to do the same as in the photo.
Placing the vertical line
Using the same method as above,
ie. dividing the top and bottom edges of the
"frame" by 1/2, 1/3's etc., make these marks -
- 1/2.................................................(4)
- 1/2 way between (4) and left side of
"frame"...........................................(5)
- 1/2 way between (4) and (5).............(6)
Draw your line from top to bottom at (6).
3. The top of the candle
Dividing the sides of the "frame", make
these marks -
- 1/2 way between (1) and the top edge of
the "frame".....................................(7)
- 1/3 up, from (7) to the top edge of
the "frame".....................................(8)
I estimated that the width of the candle was
1/3 each side of (6), towards (4) and (5).
I estimated by eye (in my mind) where this
would be in my "frame" and drew in the line.
4. The candle width
Make the marks at -
- 1/3 each side of (6) towards (4) and (5)
.....................................................(9 a,b)
Draw in the length of the candle, following
the imaginary vertical lines that run from
(9a) and (9b) at the top to those at the bottom.
I have estimated that it ends about 1/3 to
1/2 way down from (3) to (2).
Estimate this position by eye in your
"frame" and end your vertical lines there.
5. The saucer position
Using small dashes or dots, place marks
at these positions -
- a little less than 1/2 way from (3) to (1)
on each side of the candle...............(10)
- a little below (2) on (6)......................(11)
- 1/2 way between left edge of "frame" and
(9a) (left side of candle), and at the
same time also, 1/2 way between an
imaginary horizontal line going through
(10) and an imaginary horizontal line
going through (11).........................(12a)
Use your pencil to measure between (12a)
and (9a) along an imaginary horizontal line,
by laying it on the paper etc. with the tip at
(12a) and pinch your fingers on the pencil
to hold it, with the edge of your finger and
thumb where (9a) is.
Then without moving your fingers, lay the
pencil down on the paper etc. along the
same imaginary horizontal line, with the tip at (9b) (the right side of the candle) and see where the edge of your finger and thumb are.
Make a mark there...........................(12b)
If you are painting, you can use your paint brush for this. When you are sitting out of
arms reach of your subject, you can still
measure in this way by holding up your
pencil or paint-brush in front of you to
compare the sizes of the elements within
your scene. Use a dominant line as your
reference length, and compare the sizes of
other lines / areas to this.
6. The saucer
Estimate the shape of the saucer by eye
from the photo. Join all the dashes / dots approximating that shape as closely as possible.
7. Adjustments
I compared the drawing to the photo to
see if it looked the same.
Candle width
I estimated that the candle width in the
drawing was probably a little too wide, so I
thinned it down a little. I don't think I
needed to, though!
Back of saucer
I dropped this down a little.
8. The flame
between the top of the candle and the top
of the photo.
Estimate on the photo by eye, 1/2 way
between this point and the top of the photo,
ie. 3/4 from the top of the candle to the
top of the photo.
I estimated that the top of the flame comes
just under this 3/4 mark.
On the drawing, go through these same
steps and mark where the top of the flame
goes.
For the width of the flame, estimate on the
photo by eye where the width of the flame
falls, from the centre of the flame to
the width of the candle, (9a) or (9b).
I estimate that to be about 1/3.
On the drawing imagine in your mind, a vertical line going down along this point and mark in a dash or dot to show the side of the flame. Do the same for the other side of the flame.
Look at the flame in the photo to see it's shape, then draw it in the drawing, joining
it up to the dashes / dots.
Mine doesn't look the same as the photo,
as the candle width is too thin.
9. The base of the candle
Estimate on the photo by eye, where the
base of the candle comes, between the top
and the bottom of the saucer.
I estimate it to be about 1/2 way.
Make a mark there, and draw in the base
of the candle.
10. The base of the right fold of the bow
base falls.
I estimate that it runs from the candle
base, along an imaginary horizontal line.
Estimate on the photo by eye, how far out
the fold goes.
I estimated that the distance from the edge
of the saucer to the fold, is about the same
as 1/2 the distance between the edge of
the candle and the edge of the saucer.
Keeping these things in mind, and looking
at the photo to get a good idea of it's
shape, draw the base of the right fold of the bow, making sure it follows these estimations.
11. The folded edge of the right fold of
the bow
Estimate on the photo by eye, where the
top point of the fold falls in relation to the
saucer.
I estimated that if you imagine a vertical
line going down from the point it will pass
very close to the side edge of the saucer.
With your pencil on the photo, measure the
length of the base of the fold (which was
drawn in the last section above), then with-
out moving your finger positions on the
pencil, move it and lay it along the folded
edge of this fold of the bow and see how
it's length compares.
I estimated that the fold is 2/3 the length of
the base.
So, lay your pencil along the base of the
fold of the bow on the drawing. Measure
it's length. Then without moving the
position of your fingers on the pencil, move
the pencil so that it's point is at the end
point of the base.
And at the same time, move the pencil
so that the 2/3 point of your measurement
falls along the imaginary vertical line
down past the edge of the saucer.
See where this is on the drawing, and
make a mark there.
Then, looking at the photo to see how the
folded edge looks, draw it in, making sure
that it starts at your mark and ends at the
point of the base.
12. The top edge of the right fold of the
bow
Look at the top edge of the right fold of the
bow in the photo, and then draw it's shape
in the drawing as closely as you can to
what you saw.
13. Adjustment
I compared the drawing to the photo and
the right fold of the bow looked to be a little
large, so I shortened the length of the base
a little, and hence had to re-draw in the line
of the folded edge.
14. The position of the left fold of the
bow
Another method to position a shape, is to
put dots where the points of the shape
should go.
Look at the photo and estimate where this
part of the bow begins.
I estimate, close to the vertical centre of
the candle, and a little higher than the
bottom of the candle.
Place a dot there on your drawing.
Similarly, for the beginning of the other
side, I estimate, that it is on the vertical
centre line through the candle, and a little
below the base of the candle.
Place a dot there on your drawing.
For the top corner of the fold, I estimate
this to be a little below the base of the
curtain, and a little beyond an imaginary
vertical line passing alongside the left edge
of the saucer.
Place a dot there on your drawing.
For the bottom corner of the fold, I estimate this to be a little above an imaginary horizontal line passing alongside
the bottom of the saucer, and a little beyond an imaginary vertical line coming down from the top corner dot.
Place a dot there on your drawing.
15. The left fold of the bow
Look at the photo to see the shape of each
line of this fold of the bow, and draw them
into the drawing, making sure that they
connect with the dots.
Continue in this way, using these methods.
You can use where lines cross as
reference points, to estimate 1/2, 1/3's etc.
of the line between them. Such as the
lower edge of the saucer between the two
folds of the bow.
The object is to draw in the main outlines of all the objects.
17. The completed foundation sketch
Adjustments
Check one last time that everything in your
drawing looks the same as in the photo.
I made the candle width a little thicker so
that it is probably back to the original width.
Tidying up
Rub out all the unnecessary lines.
- the vertical line through the centre of
the candle etc.
- the horizontal line of the bottom of the
curtain where it goes through the
saucer
- the marks around the edge of the
"frame"
And there is the completed drawing, with
everything in proportion.
Yours may not look the same as mine, but
remember that everyone has their own style.
(c) Katherine Stuart 2014
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